A spirit-ed passage through the Anderson Valley
Wine, cider, beer, great food, and glorious scenery
One minute, you're zipping north past Cloverdale and the vineyards of the better-known Sonoma region, and the next, you find yourself slowing down—not just because of the curves in the road, but because something in the air shifts.
The oaks grow thicker, the temperatures drop ever so slightly, and suddenly you're in a world where Pinot is king, apples have personality, and locals speak a language you’ve never heard before (no really, it’s called Boontling—and we’ll get to that).
Anderson Valley is the kind of place that feels like it could only exist in California, and in Mendocino County at that: rustic but refined, low-key but proud of it, and totally okay with the fact that you might spend your whole visit slightly buzzed. It’s a land of slow mornings, long tastings, river dips, redwood reverence, and increasingly, cannabis culture with deep local roots.
Welcome. You’re about to fall a little in love.
Before you go: some notes
Gas up early - You won’t find many stations once you're in the valley.
Do some pre-trip planning - Check out the websites for the places that interest you to see if anything special is scheduled that you want to catch. Also, wineries close early, and some need advance reservations.
Stay the night (or 2) - I haven’t made this into an “x-day itinerary” but I think a visit to the Anderson Valley needs multiple days—at least two and more if poss. Read through and see what you think. There’s too much beauty here to rush.
Talk to people - There is a strong sense of community here and the people I’ve encountered are friendly and ready for a conversation. Everyone has a story—and you never know what you might learn!
The approach: a drive worth savoring
Before you even reach Boonville, the journey begins to whisper what’s ahead. From Highway 101, take the turnoff to Highway 128 and prepare to shift both your gears and your mindset. This is no straight shot. The road winds, curls, and occasionally throws in a hairpin turn just to make sure you’re paying attention.
But oh, the scenery—oak-studded hillsides, pockets of vineyards peeking through groves, and sudden glimpses of the Navarro River snaking through the valley floor.
This is the kind of drive where your playlists sound better and your thoughts get quieter. Cell service fades away somewhere around Yorkville, but that’s a feature, not a bug. Pull over at a turnout, breathe in the scent of sun-warmed manzanita and pine, and let the anticipation build.
And then, just as you begin to wonder if you’ve accidentally slipped into a different century, Boonville appears.
Boonville: the quirky heartbeat of the valley
Boonville is the largest town in Anderson Valley—a bit like saying someone’s the tallest hobbit. But don't let its small size fool you. Boonville punches above its weight in charm, craft, and character.
Language lessons and local lore
Let’s begin with the linguistic curveball: Boontling. It’s a hyper-local dialect invented by 19th-century residents to gossip in code while working in the orchards and hop fields.
Want to try your hand? You could say, "Let’s heelch to the bahl hornin’," which roughly means, “Let’s head over to the good party.” Or just smile and nod and leave it to the locals—no one will fault you.
Anderson Valley Brewing Company: hops, frisbee golf, and hammocks
Swing by Anderson Valley Brewing Company, a pioneering craft brewery that started long before “IPA” became a lifestyle. They make beers with names like Hop Ottin’ and Boont Amber Ale, and yes, you’ll see a horned bear (the “bahl hornin’” again!) on many of their labels. The beer garden is sprawling and casual, perfect for sipping a gose under a redwood tree.
If you’re feeling spry, there's an 18-hole disc golf course on site. If you’re not, there are hammocks. Choose your own adventure.
Shopping and snacking in town
Wander along Boonville’s main drag and you’ll find a handful of shops, galleries, and cafés worth poking your head into. Lemon’s Market is the kind of place you could lose an hour in, and Farmhouse Mercantile offers home goods that make you question your current décor life choices. For a snack, stop at Boonville General Store, where the sandwiches are pressed to golden perfection and the pastries have an indecent amount of butter (this is a compliment).
For a great sit-down meal, head into Offspring at the Farrer Building. This spin-off from the Boonville Hotel (hence the name) offers excellent Italian food in a lovely setting.
Sip happens: wineries worth the detour
Anderson Valley may be small, but it’s definitely a contender in the wine world. Cool-climate grapes thrive here thanks to coastal fog and that rare combo of warm days and chilly nights. The valley’s calling cards are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sure—but don’t overlook the bright whites and stellar sparkling wines that make this a low-key champagne lover’s paradise.
Yes, you read that right: this rural redwood-fringed valley is a secret sparkling wine stronghold. Blame (or thank) the climate: high acidity and moderate sugar make for grapes that practically beg to be turned into methode champenoise magic.
Here are some stars of the show:
Roederer Estate: If you're the type who equates bubbles with birthdays and brunch, Roederer Estate is your must-stop. This is the American outpost of the legendary French Champagne house Louis Roederer (yes, the one behind Cristal), and they brought all their savoir-faire with them. The Brut and Brut Rosé are elegant, crisp, and surprisingly affordable. Tastings come with sweeping vineyard views and the kind of serene stillness that makes you seriously consider never returning to real life.
Scharffenberger Cellars: Just down the road, Scharffenberger has been perfecting Anderson Valley bubbles since the early ’80s. Their sparkling wines tend to be a little rounder and richer, a friendly companion to picnic foods and philosophical musings. Try both the Brut Excellence and Brut Rosé—and maybe pick up an extra bottle for emergencies. (The emergency could be “Tuesday.”)
Handley Cellars: Now back to still wines for a moment—but don’t skip Handley, because they also craft a lovely Brut Rosé Sparkling from estate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Handley is woman-founded and fiercely sustainable, with labels that feature the owner’s own woodcut prints. The tasting room is unpretentious, the wines are consistently excellent, and the vibe is what happens when fine art, good farming, and wine love each other very much.
Husch Vineyards: Also in the mix: Anderson Valley’s oldest winery, which is best known for its Pinot and aromatic whites—but also occasionally releases a limited-edition sparkling that’s worth asking about if you’re lucky enough to time it right. Even if bubbles aren’t on offer, their dry Gewürztraminer and Chenin Blanc are perfect palate cleansers between richer pours.
Toulouse Vineyards: No bubbles here, but their Pinot Noir is practically a rite of passage for Anderson Valley wine drinkers. With a laid-back tasting deck that overlooks the Navarro River, Toulouse is a scenic and satisfying stop between sips. Also, there’s usually a dog. Possibly in a sweater.
Pennyroyal Farm: CHEESE ALERT! While Pennyroyal isn’t in the sparkling biz (yet), it’s an essential stop for those who like their wine with a side of chèvre. Their Sauvignon Blanc is zippy and fresh, and their Pinot pairs beautifully with house-made cheeses like Laychee and Boont Corners. The whole place looks like a pastoral dreamscape designed by someone with a Pinterest board titled “Rustic but Make It Fashion.” Order a cheese sampler along with a glass of wine, then go sit outside and enjoy the view of the farm and vineyard.
Anderson Valley Museum: small town, big stories
Housed in a little red schoolhouse alongside the highway, the Anderson Valley Museum is where local history gets the cozy, homespun treatment. It's part time capsule, part community scrapbook, and 100% charming.
Inside, you’ll find exhibits that range from the valley’s original homesteaders to hop farming, timber days, and the all-important origin story of Boontling (yes, there's a whole exhibit about the valley’s made-up language—and no, you’re still not pronouncing “harpin’ the ling” quite right).
It’s the kind of place where you can see antique butter churns, black-and-white wedding portraits, and maybe even your AirBnB host’s great-grandfather’s axe. The docents are often locals who know every name in every photo—and probably have a story or two you won’t find on the placards.
In a valley where sipping and hiking tend to steal the spotlight, the museum is a lovely reminder that Anderson Valley didn’t just bloom out of nowhere. It grew—quietly, stubbornly, and with plenty of character.
Philo: small but mighty
Philo may be tiny, but it holds some of the best bites, pours, and high-minded experiences in the valley. It’s also home to The Bohemian Chemist and The Madrones, so don’t skip it just because the speed limit never dips below 35.
If you’re peckish, stop by Jumbo’s Win Win (trust me, you can’t miss it). It features an eclectic menu, including smash burgers and soft serve ice cream made with local olive oil, honey, and fennel.
Gowan’s Heirloom Cider: a crisp alternative
Gowan’s Cider is bringing apples back to the forefront. Gowan’s has been farming in Anderson Valley since 1876, but their hard cider operation is a more recent, and wildly delicious, endeavor.
Their tasting orchard lets you sip under the trees where the apples are grown. It’s almost too charming. Try the Gravenstein or Kingston Black for an earthy, complex pour—and if you’re driving, they sell plenty of bottles to go.
The Bohemian Chemist: retro apothecary meets cannabis chic
Before Napa had its tasting rooms and Paso Robles had its Zinfandel trail, Anderson Valley was quietly cultivating another crop: cannabis. Longtime growers in the surrounding hills kept the legacy alive through the lean years, and today, the valley is staking its claim as a hub for artisanal, sun-grown weed with terroir just as complex as any Pinot.
No trip to the valley is complete without a visit to The Bohemian Chemist, a cannabis dispensary that feels more Wes Anderson than weed shop. Housed in a gorgeously restored building that could double as a set for a ‘20s mystery, The Chemist combines art deco design with top-tier cannabis products—think hand-rolled joints in elegant glass tubes and tinctures you’d proudly display next to your perfume collection.
Whether you're canna-curious or a seasoned toker, the experience here is elevated in every sense. They also sell hand-poured candles, vintage-style posters, and a general vibe of glamorized rebellion.
The Apple Farm: a slice of heirloom Eden
Tucked just off Highway 128 in Philo and on the way to Hendy Woods, The Apple Farm isn’t just a farm—it’s a gentle nudge to slow down, exhale, and remember what real apples taste like. This family-run paradise has been growing heirloom varieties since before “heirloom” became a marketing buzzword, and walking through the orchard feels a bit like time travel (but with better snacks).
The centerpiece is a rustic farmstand, where you might find baskets of blushing Pink Pearls, knobbly Spitzenburgs, or cider so fresh it still remembers the tree. They don’t do flashy. They do delicious. Everything here is seasonal, small-batch, and handled with reverence by people who genuinely love trees.
Pro tip: Ask if they have any of their house-made jam or apple butter. You’ll wonder why you ever settled for grocery store jelly.
Hendy Woods State Park: a redwood intermission
After all that sipping, it's time for some forest bathing. Turn, go past The Apple Farm, and keep on going till the left turn into the park. Hendy Woods is home to two old-growth redwood groves—Big Hendy and Little Hendy—and they are spectacular. Trails are flat and peaceful, perfect for all ages and fitness levels.
Breathe deep and walk slowly.
Lodging: from luxe to laid-back
Boonville Hotel: Modern roadhouse with thoughtful rooms, beautiful outdoor spaces ready for a sit-down, and a warm, communal atmosphere. If the restaurant is open, don’t miss it.
The Madrones and The Brambles (Philo): Elegant, quiet, and full of charm. Taste wine, explore gardens, and crash in style. Home to The Bohemian Chemist and Wickson’s restaurant.
The Apple Farm (Philo): Charming cottages that make you feel like pretending you live in a Nancy Meyers movie. No TVs, no distractions—just birdsong, branches, and the gentle hum of apple magic.
The Navarro finale: trees, curves, and the great unwind
Just when you think Anderson Valley has revealed all its cards—Pinot, pastries, pot—you hit the final stretch of Highway 128 and realize: oh, there’s more.
The road narrows. The light dims. And suddenly, you’re gliding through a cathedral of towering redwoods known as Navarro River Redwoods State Park. It's less of a drive and more of a cinematic dissolve into mist and moss. Your car becomes a whisper. The trees, impossibly tall and straight, line up like nature’s honor guard, ushering you toward the Pacific. (There is access to the Navarro River from the park, so if you want to stop and swim, this is the place.)
There are no billboards, no gas stations, no reminders of the modern world—just curve after gentle curve of quiet, loamy wonder. It smells like damp earth and tree bark and something vaguely prehistoric. Time decelerates. Shoulders unclench.
The road home
Eventually, you emerge into sunlight at the junction with Highway 1. From here, you can backtrack, head south on Highway 1, or continue on and shift into a coastal adventure.
Whatever turn you take, Anderson Valley will linger with you like the best kind of aftertaste. Maybe it’s the wine, maybe it’s the trees, or maybe it’s just that rare sense of having truly slowed down and paid attention.
Until then, bahl hornin’, traveler. You did Anderson Valley just right.