The wild northern California coast, part 2
Another 4-day itinerary of sea bluffs, flowers, art, and maybe even a tattoo!
Here is the continuation of the trip up Highway 1 from the place we stopped last time.
Ah, Highway 1 from Albion to Rockport—the coastal road that thinks it’s on a fashion runway, striking a pose at every turn and never missing a chance to show off. This stretch of Northern California isn’t just a drive; it’s a flirtation with the edge of the world. The first town you encounter is Albion, where the bridge floats like it’s too cool to touch the river below, and the road immediately throws you into a drama of cliffs, crashing surf, and curves that feel more choreographed than engineered.
Forget cruise control—this highway demands your attention. It winds through seaside hamlets that look like postcards nobody ever sent, past lone cypress trees clinging to the bluffs like philosophers who’ve seen some things. By the time you glide into Rockport (population: probably goats), you’ll have passed more scenic overlooks, fog-kissed bends, and “Wait, should we stop here?” moments than you can count.
So buckle up, roll down the windows, and let Highway 1 continue to do what it does best—sweep you off your feet, one hairpin turn at a time. The only thing I ask: Go slow, stop where your heart tells you, and allow this wonderful place to rejuvenate you.
Day 1: Albion to Little River
Start where Highway 128 meets Highway 1—where we ended in Part 1 of the Highway 1 odyssey. If you’ve come through the Anderson Valley (a trip I’ll offer next time), you’ll come to a dramatic unveiling of ocean after a redwood-stuffed ride. Seriously, we’re talking pure eye candy.
After an introduction of twists, turns, and cliffs, you’ll glide in Albion, past the historic wooden bridge still strutting its century-old stuff. Pause to take in the views, breathe in the salt air, and wave at the fog (it’ll wave back).
Just up the road lies Van Damme State Park in Little River. Don’t let the name fool you—it’s not a Jean-Claude tribute, but it is packed with action: a pygmy forest that feels like a bonsai wonderland, fern-covered hiking trails, and sea kayaking opportunities for the adventurous. If you hit it at low tide, tide pooling opportunities abound.
Day 1 evening: Option #1
Roll into Little River and get a cozy lunch table at Little River Inn Restaurant, where ocean views and chowder make a delicious duo. Then relax for the afternoon and evening, just unwinding the knots in your back and brain. Stay over at Little River Inn—historic, oceanfront, rocking chairs and romance included—or Inn at Schoolhouse Creek with gardens, private hot tubs, and coastal charm by the truckload.
Day 1 evening: Option #2
If you’re craving something a little more secluded, different, and steamy, turn inland just before Mendocino Village and check in at Orr Hot Springs Resort. This is a clothing-optional haven of geothermal bliss tucked away off the main tourist track. Soak in Japanese-style hot tubs under the stars or stretch out in a clawfoot tub in a private room. Silence is golden here, and so is the sunset as it filters through the steam.
When you’re not marinating in mineral water, head to Montgomery Woods State Natural Reserve just a few miles up the road. It’s a hush-hush spot with towering old-growth redwoods and a cathedral-like stillness that’ll make you forget what email is.
Stay overnight at Orr. But note! The resort doesn’t have a restaurant. Guests often cook communally in the well-equipped kitchen, which can be a great experience. Pre-plan and bring food to cook, or pack a picnic basket of gourmet goodies so you won’t need to do much in the kitchen.
Sip a drink. Watch the fog roll in. Settle in—and let tensions and stress just roll off your body.
Day 2: Mendocino Village
Morning: Goodlife food and hikes along the headlands
Make a short pre-breakfast hop to Mendocino Village, the town of windswept charm and creative swagger.
Get a hearty (or continental) breakfast at GoodLife Café & Bakery, a favorite of both locals and tourists. If there’s a line out the door, don’t worry—it moves fast.
Get breakfast to go, find a picnic table or bench in Mendocino Headlands State Park, and eat al fresco. The park stands between the town and the sea, and every trail ends in a gasp-inducing panorama. Take a post-meal amble along the paths and take in nature’s artwork all around. (Warning: If you spend a lot of time here, you will contemplate quitting your job and becoming a plein-air painter.)
Afternoon: pub grub and kulchuh
Come in from nature for lunch at Patterson’s Pub, with their delicious hybrid menu of pub grub and seafood dishes. Good luck making a choice.
Stop by the Ford House Museum, where logging history and ocean tales are served with a splash of fog. Check the Kelley House Museum to see if any walking tours sound good, like the Murder, She Wrote tour (many of the early seasons of the show were filmed here).
Stop in at the Mendocino Art Center to take a gander. The center offers workshops, so you might want to check their site ahead of time to see if there’s one that suits your fancy (in which case your itinerary will change a bit!).
If the season is on, see if you can get tickets to the current play offered at Mendocino Theatre Company. A treat indeed!
Stroll through this charming town and visit galleries, funky shops, and snacky spots.
Evening: deliciousness and more wind down time
Dinner gets an elegant twist at Trillium Café, where the menu features whatever the chef and the local farms felt inspired to make that day.
When it’s time to sleep, Mendocino knows how to make you happy. There are so many great places to choose from. Ford House and Kelly House are candidates, and here are just a few more:
Brewery Gulch Inn – Fireplace, wine hour, and breakfast that could spark a poem
One of these three Inns of Mendocino – Victorian elegance meets Instagram goals
MacCallum House Inn – Iconic, central, and just the right amount of fancy
Day 3: Fort Bragg
Morning: Something Benedict, gardens, murals, and more sea views
You might be tempted to linger in Mendocino, but Fort Bragg is ready for its close-up.
Head to Main Street for breakfast at Egghead’s, where they serve all kinds of variations of Eggs Benedict. It looks like a hole in the wall, but it’s a charmer with a Wizard of Oz theme.
Backtrack to the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens to wander through 47 acres of bloom, bluff, and sea breeze.
Rhododendrons strut their stuff in spring, but the coastal trails are a year-round delight. Stop at Rhody’s Café on the way out to fortify yourself with a coffee and sweet snack.
Afternoon: Murals, fishing trawlers, and a tattoo museum
For lunch, wind down to Noyo Harbor, a commercial fishing center. Noyo Fish Company offers the usual fare like fish and chips, as well as some terrific dishes like fish tacos. Sea Pal Cove, a bit further along, also has good choices, including clam chowder in a sourdough bowl. In both places, you may get serenaded by the resident sea lions and gulls.
For a sit-down lunch, you can’t beat Harborview Bistro and Bar. If the weather is fine, sit outside and get a view of the whole harbor.
You’re not done with nature yet! Stroll the Noyo Headlands Trail, an oceanfront path with interpretive signs and dramatic seascapes.
Now it’s time to go to town! Fort Bragg has reinvented itself from blue-collar logging town to creative center. You don’t have to look far to see the town’s artistic side—it’s on full display. The Fort Bragg Alleyway Art Project is to blame for the amazing murals all over the place. Take a self-guided mural walking tour, stopping to pop into interesting shops along the way.
Be sure to stop by Triangle Tattoo Museum and Parlor, even if you don’t want to get inked. It’s worth it to check out all the rooms full of floor-to-ceiling tattoo art. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to meet Madame Chinchilla and possibly Mr. G, the couple who own the business. Want to get a tattoo memento? You can’t go wrong with Nicola or Niki (who is my tattoo artist).
Tall Guy Brewing is your late afternoon rest stop—locally brewed beer and house-made root beer in a welcoming spot that feels like you’ve stumbled into someone’s very cool garage. There’s something on every night and sometimes during the day. Kids and dogs are welcome, and some local restaurants will deliver your order to you there for free. My idea of community.
An alternative rest top is Cowlick’s with their house-made ice cream selection, sundaes, and floats.
The mushroom ice cream tastes like maple syrup and the ginger tastes…uh…gingery. I have yet to try their “candy store floor” flavor—if you give it a shot let me know how it is!
Evening: lot of dinner choices and a wonderful place to stay
What are you in the mood for at dinner time? Here are some choices:
Noyo River Grill, overlooking the Noyo River where it meets the sea, serves great seafood
Los Gallitos is the place for great Mexican food and drinks
Cucina Verona is your Italian food stop with plenty of options
Off the Hook is the sushi, sashimi, and other fish spot
The pub at North Coast Brewing gives you another look into the local breweries (Overtime Brewery is another)
Thinking about hitting the hay? Sleep well at:
Noyo Harbor Inn (where the restaurant is) with its high-over-the-harbor location
Beachcomber Motel offers easy access to the sand and sea
North Cliff Hotel where you can watch the harbor lights from your balcony
Inn at Newport Ranch is a few minutes north, but worth every winding turn
Day 4: Fort Bragg to Rockport
Morning: More beach!
Begin your final day with a beach walk at Ten Mile Beach, about 10 minutes north on the highway (no rush…have a leisurely breakfast in Fort Bragg first). Long, empty, and refreshingly wild, this is the kind of place where you lose track of time (and possibly your shoes).
When you’re ready, head north to Westport, where the population is small but the scenery is grand. Once a logging town, now it’s all porch swings, misty mornings, and a single delightful pub. Old Abalone Pub is a good stop for lunch and maybe a porch beer.
Keep hugging the coast until you reach Rockport, a name on a map and a feeling in your chest. It’s not much of a town anymore—more like a suggestion whispered by the cliffs. But oh, the beauty. Hike through the Rockport Redwood Grove or stare down at the waves from the Rockport State Marine Conservation Area. Just you, the sea, and some truly judgmental seagulls.
For your final night, lodgings near Rockport are few but memorable. Backtrack to the Westport Hotel & Old Abalone Pub with its old-school coastal charm and maybe dinner at the pub? Or choose Howard Creek Ranch Inn—rustic, eccentric, and very much in tune with nature.
Heading Home
Next morning, make the drive back to Highway 101 and real life—it’s a peaceful transition from cliffside solitude to redwood-studded ribbon roads and, eventually, reality.
Just north of Rockport, take Branscomb Road east from the town of Laytonville. This winding, tree-lined route will lead you back to Highway 101, reconnecting you with civilization via towering redwoods, meadows, and hairpin turns galore. From there, you can head south toward Ukiah, Santa Rosa, or all the way back to the Bay Area.
Rested, rejuvenated, and with a little sand in the car.
There’s one more article in June’s “West Coast Destinations” articles. Next time I will take you through my favorite way to get from Fort Bragg to Santa Rosa—Anderson Valley.